12 Things to Do in Lviv, Ukraine

We almost didn’t go to Lviv. It’s a 9-hour bus ride (or overnight train) from Krakow and a 5-hour train ride from Kyiv, so it’s not the easiest place to detour. If we were also going to Kyiv, it would have been more convenient, but we ended up doing an overnight bus from Krakow (including 5 hours at the border) and then a 9-hour bus back to Krakow a few days later. Despite the long travel time, we are so glad we went! [Note: If you’re planning a trip to Lviv, RyanAir started flying there in late 2018, so that’s another option.]

I had never heard of Lviv until we arrived in Europe on this trip. It’s a city in western Ukraine that used to be part of Poland. The Soviet influence is fairly low in Lviv, so I imagine other places in Ukraine may have a much different feel, but I can’t personally attest to that.

You should visit Lviv if you like coffee, alcohol, chocolate, pretty Old Town architecture, affordable travel, and being one of the few Americans visiting somewhere. 😉 Have we convinced you to go? Great! Here are 12 things you should do during your time in Lviv:

1. Join a free walking tour.

We always recommend free walking tours as a great introduction to a city. Not only do you learn about the history and culture of the city, but you also get a good overview of the city’s offerings to decide what you want to spend more time doing later and what you can skip. For this reason, we recommend doing the free walking tour on your first morning (or evening) in the city, if possible. Also, the guide is usually a local, so you can get the best food and drink recommendations this way!

We enjoyed our “Must See of Old Town” tour with Lviv Buddy. Walkative also offers free walking tours in Lviv if their schedule works better for you; we enjoyed our experiences with Walkative in Poland.

2. Drink fire coffee.

Visit L’vivs’ka Kopal’nya Kavy and head downstairs to the “coffee mine.” On your way down, an employee will hand you a hard hat so you can explore the “mine.” (No, coffee is not really mined here! It’s just a fun attraction.) There are several rooms downstairs where you can sit and order a “fire coffee” (Baileys optional), which will be blowtorched at your table (to caramelize the sugar on top of your coffee). Fun and delicious!

3. Sample handmade chocolate.

There are a few options for local chocolate shops in Lviv. We visited Lviv Handmade Chocolate on Serbska Street and there were four levels! We had some delicious dark chocolate, and I really enjoyed my plum truffle. The worst part about this chocolate shop is it’s so hard to pick which chocolates to try.

4. Eat varenyky (dumplings).

Varenyky are Ukrainian dumplings (or Ukrainian pierogi). You can find them with all types of fillings, from savory to sweet. Marusya is a small restaurant specializing in varenyky located just off the main Old Town strip. You must order inside at the bar. We tried the traditional potato varenyky (“Mr. White”) and Chinese varenyky; both were delicious! Don’t feel like you have to try the varenyky at Marusya; they are sold all over town, but our free walking tour guide recommended this place for an affordable lunch.

5. Have brunch at Baczewski.

Baczewski offers a brunch buffet from 8 to 11 a.m. every day. Get there early. We arrived before 9 a.m. on a Tuesday and had to wait in line for an hour and a half; they stop seating people for brunch at 10:45, so we almost missed it. During the week, definitely get there at (or before) 8, and on the weekends—good luck! Brunch includes a coffee or tea and a glass of champagne or a shot of vodka, and the whole thing only costs 125 UAH per person (about $6 USD). Plus, the brunch room is lovely [pictured above] with live piano music. If you’re just looking for delicious food, we honestly had better food at other cafes in Lviv, but Megan recommends Baczewski for the atmosphere and variety (and value!).

6. Admire the architecture (and candy colors).

Just wandering around is one of my favorite activities to do when traveling, especially when there are beautiful buildings to photograph! Lviv is full of pastel colors and charming doorways, so there was a lot to admire.

7. Eat borscht. (And drink kvas.)

For another traditional Ukrainian food, order a bowl of borscht. This soup is commonly served across Eastern Europe and northern Asia, and the Ukrainian version (considered the original) is made with beetroot, which gives it its lovely color. (Also, that dark drink pictured above is kvas, a fermented bread drink also spelled kvass. I actually hate beer, and I liked kvas! A bit sweet, but worth a taste when visiting Ukraine, IMHO.)

8. Have dinner at Meat and Justice.

The meat platter at Meat and Justice has been one of Jonathan’s favorite meals on this entire trip. The restaurant itself is pretty neat; it was founded by a former executioner of Lviv (after executions stopped, he needed to make a living!) and there is a “torture” theme throughout the restaurant (just check out the menu, above right). We also recommend trying Ukrainian wine while you’re here; we both had a delicious red wine from Odessa.

9. Visit the Folk Architecture Museum.

We didn’t visit this open-air museum, as the traditional houses are closed on Mondays and Tuesdays so we didn’t think it would be worth it, but it was recommended by our tour guide as a good activity to see how others in (rural) Ukraine live, especially if you’re only visiting Lviv.

10. Enjoy a cocktail surrounded by bookshelves.

We enjoyed pre-dinner drinks at Kabinet, an elegant cocktail bar lined with walls of books [pictured above]. Libraria is a local speakeasy that was recommended to us but we didn’t get to visit. Be aware that two cocktails at either of these places will probably set you back more than brunch for two at Baczewski, but not as far back as one cocktail in San Francisco. 😉

11. Visit the open-air book market.

Speaking of books, there is an open-air book market that sets up daily around the statue of Ivan Fyodorov (publishing pioneer who died in Lviv in the late 16th century, pictured above). Unfortunately, there aren’t many English books available, but it’s still a fun place for bibliophiles to peruse. Small souvenirs and other trinkets are also available. There’s also a red souvenir trailer next to the book market that offers coffee [pictured below].

12. Visit the Vernissage.

This flea market takes up a large block at the intersection of Teatralna Street and Lesi Ukrainky Street. It seems like every place we’ve visited, a guide has shown us a market where you can find souvenirs and gifts “not made in China.” Unfortunately, in this market you will have to dig through a lot of junk to find the authentic items, but if you’re looking for a nice Ukrainian souvenir or gift to take home, there are many choices here! There is also a small gift shop on the corner of Staroievreiska Street and Koliivschyny that boasts handmade items.

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So, what do you think? Would you visit Lviv? What’s the first thing you would do in the city?