Visited: July 2019
Košice is the second-largest city in Slovakia (after Bratislava) and the main city in the eastern part of the country. After visiting Budapest, we wanted to hike the High Tatras along the Slovakia/Poland border, and Košice was a convenient stop along the way. We spent about 48 hours in Košice, but the Old Town could also be seen in 24 hours if you are on a tighter schedule. If you decide to stop in this lovely city for one night, here are our ideas for how to spend your time.
Our itinerary: We arrived on FlixBus from Budapest around 3 p.m. on Monday, and our bus to Zdiar left at 3:40 p.m. on Wednesday. The bus line we took continues on all the way to Krakow, so Košice would also make a good stopping point between Budapest and Krakow.
Afternoon/Evening
After arriving in Košice and checking into your accommodations, we’ll assume it’s around 5 p.m. Head to Old Town to begin exploring.
Climb the bell tower at St. Elisabeth Cathedral.
For a small fee of 2 euros per person, you can climb all 158 steps up to the top of the bell tower at the cathedral [far right in the top photo]. The steps are quite narrow, but there are beautiful views of the city from the top [feature photo]. I also enjoyed getting an up-close look at the colorful tiles adorning the roof of the cathedral [pictured above]. It took us about 20 minutes to do this activity, including climbing up, taking photos at the top, and descending.
Try Slovakia’s national dish at Med Malina.
For dinner, walk across the square to Med Malina and try Slovakia’s national dish: bryndzové halušky (potato dumplings in sheep’s cheese). The bryndzové halušky at Med Malina has bacon, chives and sour cream on top. Yum!
Relax at the singing fountain.
After dinner, grab an ice cream or a drink and find a seat near the singing fountain (located in the park between the cathedral and the State Theater). Be sure to stay at least until the hour changes; there is always music playing for the fountain, but on each hour, a chorus of bells joins in.
Morning
Breakfast at Pogo Urban Caffe.
I still dream about the savory pancake breakfast at Pogo Urban Caffe [above left]. Seriously. I ordered the sheep’s cheese (bryndza) pancakes, which also came with bacon, chives and egg. (So, basically my dinner from the night before, but on pancakes instead of dumplings.) The interior of the cafe is also adorable [above right]. (We also had a tasty breakfast at Republika Východu if you want to compare both menus for your preference.)
Go on a GuruWalk with Lubka.
At the time of our visit (July 2019), there was not an organized free walking tour in Košice. However, we were able to find a free walking tour on GuruWalk. Our guide, Lubka, was absolutely lovely and a great introduction to the city! We were the only people who had signed up for our particular day, so we got a private tour. It started at 10 a.m. and lasted for about an hour and a half.
Peruse the market in front of the Dominican Church.
On the tour, Lubka will probably walk you by the outdoor market in front of the Dominican Church. Now would be a good time to check it out (or visit any of the other neat places Lubka pointed out along the way).
Afternoon
Enjoy a traditional lunch at Karczma Mlyn.
Karczma Mlyn is another traditional Slovak restaurant located on the main square. The interior is cozy with sheepskin throws and an alpine vibe, but we chose to sit outside and enjoy the sunshine. We highly recommend the garlic soup served in a “Bosnian pot” a.k.a. bread bowl! We ordered the soup and a plate of dumplings to share, but honestly, we could have just shared the soup.
Shop (or window shop) on Old Craftsman Row.
This is another spot Lubka pointed out on our tour. Located slightly off the main Old Town strip, this is the place to go if you want to purchase authentic, handmade souvenirs or gifts. There are small metal disks in the ground in front of each shop to indicate what goods are produced and sold there (e.g. a purse for the leather shop).
People-watch with a drink until it’s time to catch your bus.
Choose one of the many cafes along Old Town and nurse a drink (or two) until it’s time to head back to the station. You may also want to spend some time photographing the pretty pastel buildings that line the main strip.
And now, it’s time to catch your next bus (or train)! We hope you enjoyed Košice as much as we did. And of course, if you have more time in Košice (or are interested in different things than we are), the city offers much more to do than what we’ve listed here. This is only the beginning.
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