Church of St. John the Theologian at Kaneo on the shore of Lake Ohrid, Macedonia
Asia Europe India North Macedonia Travel Diary

RTW Week 34: Macedonia & India

This weekly wrap-up covers our journey from November 24 to November 30. After a relaxing few days in Ohrid, North Macedonia, we headed to Skopje for one night. On Wednesday afternoon, we left the Balkans for Delhi, India, where we joined up with our first (ever!) group tour: India’s Golden Triangle tour with Intrepid Travel. We spent Friday exploring Delhi before driving to Jaipur on Saturday.

Favorite thing we ate: Jonathan was beyond excited to have his beloved ćevapi one last time before we headed to Asia for several months. We ate a traditional Balkan meal at Destan grill in the Old Bazaar area of Skopje (recommended by both our host and our free walking tour guide), and it was everything he hoped and more [pictured above left]. Megan loved the savory breakfasts in India, especially the carbs, including paratha [layered flatbread pictured above right] and dosa.

Favorite thing we drank: Every time Megan reads a book about Indian immigrants in the United States (of which there are many great choices … stay tuned for an India reading list), it seems the characters make mango lassi at least once in the novel. So of course she had to try mango lassi in India, and it did not disappoint [smoothie-like drink pictured with lunch above left]. Jonathan’s favorite beverage of the week was freshly made masala chai from a street cart [above right]. Street cart masala chai > restaurant masala chai, in case you were wondering.

Favorite thing we did: During our first full day with Intrepid, we visited a gurudwara, a Sikh place of worship. In addition to the temple [pictured above left], there was a kitchen where anyone (regardless of religion, income, etc.) can get a free meal, served three times a day. During our visit, we joined local volunteers to roll dough for chapatis (Indian flatbread) to serve in the kitchen [above right]. We both agreed this experience was something we would not have felt comfortable participating in if our local Intrepid guide hadn’t encouraged us to join, but it was really fun and meaningful.

A handsome dog sitting placidly on a motorcycle in an alley of Old Delhi, India
This handsome dog was quite the attraction in Old Delhi!

Biggest splurge: Definitely the Intrepid tour. I have a feeling India will be our most expensive country on this trip, but only because we joined a group tour—not because the food, lodging or transportation in the country is particularly expensive. However, after nearly eight months of planning full-time travel, we don’t mind paying for the convenience of being able to follow someone around for a week. 😉

Best deal: Another traveler in our Intrepid group recommended a restaurant near our hotel for an affordable lunch, so Jonathan and I accompanied him. I can’t actually tell you what we had because we mostly pointed to things behind the counter (and inhaled it before we took a picture), but it included a few samosas and some spicy goodness and only cost $1.43 USD total (for two people!).

The Kale Fortress in Skopje, Macedonia, at dusk with a lit-up city skyline behind the fortress tower
The Kale Fortress in Skopje

Biggest oops: Only spending one night in Skopje! After visiting so many Balkan capitals, we thought Skopje would be the right place to cut a day so we could get to India on time for our group tour. But Skopje was pretty awesome, and we definitely want to return one day and explore the surrounding area (including this beautiful canyon).

Book cart along the river in Skopje, Macedonia
One of many book carts along the river in Skopje

What we’re reading: Jonathan listened to The Richest Man in Babylon by George S. Clason (meh, sadly). Megan read (and immediately downloaded the sequel to) the Texan mystery Bluebird, Bluebird by Attica Locke and the Uruguayan historical fiction novel Cantoras by Carolina De Robertis. On the flight to India, she returned to setting-based reading with Interpreter of Maladies by Jhumpa Lahiri.

Busy street outside the spice market in Old Delhi, India
Colorful and chaotic market street in Old Delhi, India

Total walking distance: 35.36 miles

Up next: Continuing our Intrepid tour of the Golden Triangle.

Featured image: The Church of St. John on the shore of Lake Ohrid

Megan

Megan is a librarian by training, currently on a journey around the world with her husband, Jonathan. She enjoys visiting bookstores, libraries and coffeeshops while traveling.

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